Tip 1: "Sleeper" cards
Tip 2: The magic eleven
Tip 3: The non-dealer 5-card trap
Tip 4: The dealer 5-card trap
Tip 5: Trapping the J
Tip 6: Other traps
Tip 7: Logic!
Tip 8: The end game: defensive pegging
Tip 9: The end game: offensive pegging
Tip 10: Twenty-Six Theory, part 1
Tip 11: Twenty-Six Theory, part 2
Tip 12: Twenty-Six Theory, part 3
Tip 13: Twenty-Six Theory, part 4
Tip 14: Twenty-Six Theory, part 5
Tip 15: The first dealer's par holes
Tip 16: The first non-dealer's par holes
Tip 17: Average game length
Tip 18: Non-dealer hand analysis
Tip 19: Dealer hand analysis
Tip 20: Dealer and non-dealer scoring odds
In previous articles, we discussed the Twenty-Six Theory. Memorize the "par" holes in this, and the previous tip, both for the dealer and for the non-dealer. Note the position of the "par" holes when you will be the non-dealer and having first count. The game may be very slow, or very fast game, and you will have to readjust your game, perhaps several times, to maintain your advantage, or trying to attain an advantage. Many games will be played that the luck of the draw simply forbid your winning, despite all your efforts of maintaining, or attaining, board position.
But, by playing these "par" holes to attain board position you will improve your winning average. Over average players, you should win an extra twelve games in every hundred played! That's the winning edge!
- Republished from Play Winning Cribbage by permission. Text copyright © 2002 by DeLynn Colvert. All rights reserved.Previous | Next